The Cape Breton Highlands are meant for travelers who are easily satisfied with the very best. The engineers who built the roads traversing this national park were surely artists, with a fine sense of drama.
By definition, the Highlands barely register as mountains. Yet there is a soaring beauty here that touches my soul. You can see it from a car. But you can feel it by hiking along ancient trails, or kayaking along coastal nooks.
"The Highlands are such a wonderful place because virtually all the birds and animals that are supposed to be here are still here," says Highland naturalist Dave Algar. "Moose, bears, foxes, coyotes, lynx, bobcats... It's the way it's supposed to be. People can feel that. People immediately feel warm and comfortable, like this place is so right."
Mountain bikers, birders, anglers and ecologists delight in a countryside that feels expansive and unpretentious. In a place where bald eagles and whales are abundant, it's possible to spend days camping and exploring.
It's also possible to live well in surrounding villages. Snug against an amazing inland sea - the Bras d'Or Lakes - Baddeck has several appealing resorts and country inns. Alexander Graham Bell tinkered here for 36 years.
But Baddeck hardly holds a monopoly on charm. Fine inns, golf courses, resorts and restaurants are tucked away throughout Cape Breton. And kilted innkeepers who welcome with Gaelic aren't engaging in touristy kitsch. Tradition is bred in the bone, and locals work hard preserving the past.
That's why visiting Cape Breton without attending a traditional Celtic concert would be sacrilege. Like the region, the harmonies may be heartfelt and joyous. Or as haunting as a cold wind across the moors. Cape Breton is best in autumn, when the chlorophyll dissipates, and sumptuous hues blanket the hillsides. Celtic Colours is a series of small, traditional October concerts in various towns and villages. Many performances spark informal ceilidhs (gatherings) that last until the not-so-wee hours.
Nova Scotia Stories: Cape Breton Highlands
Nova Scotia Stories: Fortress Louisbourg
Nova Scotia Stories: Halifax & the
South Shore
Nova Scotia Stories: Port Royal
Prince Edwards Island Stories: Green
Gables
All Atlantic Canada stories by Richard
Levangie
The Best Coast Group
